My fourth day in the city truly inspired me, more than any other experience has/ did. I was given the opportunity to visit the factory of one of the first textile establishments in Kolkata to engage in block printing. The face of the operations is a quaint boutique named Kanishka’s, in Ballygunge. The factory itself that has been operational for almost 45 years now, is located somewhere deep within the by lanes of Park Circus.This particular block printing outfit works on designing saris and Indian wear for the local boutique and also caters to a Western market demand for basic bock prints on shir
It took a moment for my eyes to adjust to the dim lit entrance to the factory. The room was lined by shelf upon shelf of discarded blocks. There were six long tables situated around the room and men stood bent over the fabric with blocks of various sizes. I fell in love with a white silk sari, mid- print that was on the table closest to me. On closer look I noticed that on each table there were nine-yards of fabric carefully pinned down so the cloth remains taut.
The men had plastic carts with wheels that they pushed around with them as they worked, that held their paint pads (to dip the block into). I watched as they manually stamped patterns, one by one, with disciplined precision. Even dipped the block into the paint pad was a measured act because the paint had to coat the block evenly and in the right consistency. And watched them place the block once, twice, repeatedly with such precision and speed is enthralling. I got sucked into their vortex of concentration that was palpable yet could seem effortless to the eye. For a second the room would be quiet as they placed their block and then they’d give the block a nice thump on the back. Since there were so many people working at once though there was no moments of silence but a symphony of percussion.
Every now and again I would return to that wonderful white sari I had first noticed just to see how it was progressing. The man printing it also had an amusing way of tapping the blocks once placed on the fabric. He would turn back to his crate to re-dip the block, making a squelching sound in the tray as he did, following by a second of silence and then three rhythmic taps on the block, and then again. It was so fun to watch but I did eventually have to stop when my ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ started distracting him.
After printing on the fabric they were left to dry and covered with a white powder to prevent the colour from running. We then watched other workers carry out the painstaking task of collecting saris that had been drying for sometime, lay about 40 pieces one over the other and bundle them up with a plain cloth, fastened with rope. This entire bundle was carried and placed in the perfect position over a boiler that was filled halfway up with water and lit from the bottom. This is so that the steam from the boiler rises up and spreads evenly, filling up the entire bundle and then escaping from the top. This process lasts about 45 minutes but is crucial to prevent the colours from running when washed (after use).
Until that was done I watch them prepare the dye for the fabric; weigh the powdered colours on an old weighing scale with the hexagonal weights on one side,cook the colours, and mix them before filling them into the tray. I also watched them tie-dying some fabric to be printed upon later.
The fabric pieces were swiftly separated and then, finally, and I quite enjoyed this part, they beat the fabric. Yes, literally beat the fabric with large wooden hammers. Apparently during the steaming the weave or threads of fabric expand and become tough and the beating removes all the stiffness from the cloth. But I partly suspect they do this for fun and to let off some steam.
The entire process is unbelievably time- consuming. This is intricate intricate work. The patterns are often designed to be in multiple colours. This involves the production of as many blocks as colours in the pattern. The person working on the pattern must then place three different blocks over the same pattern such that it syncs perfectly to make the completed image on the fabric. There are so many small details to the process. I cannot imagine this kind of production line as a theory simply because I do not think it would work unless the people working truly cared for and respected their trade. All in all I garnered a whole lot of respect for artisans. And although I didn’t get to buy that beautiful sari I love and still dream about, I did pick up an intricate silk sari for my mother from Kanishka’s before I left.
The rest of the day was spent talking about everything I had seen and trying to create my own block print out of an eraser using a blade. It was lots of fun but not entirely successful. As for where I went thereafter, here it is.
On the way back from the factory I stopped off at Arsalan, Park Circus for some amazing mutton biryani and mutton stew. Most people know about this place, but don’t second- doubt it on account of its popularity. It is truly amazing biryani. This was followed by a two hour long walk, taken for the sole purpose of digesting lunch (I said amazing, not healthy).
I then joined a couple college friends near St. Xavier’s college for an ice cream after which we walked over to Oly Pub on Park Street for a chilled He-Man Super Ultra Strong Beer. Allow me to warn you, they’re not completely lying about being “super ultra strong”. Oly Pub is another place that Calcutta (at least of my generation, as far as I know, swears by). The ambience has however been kicked up a notch or five since I was there years ago. And I’ve got to say, I liked it a little better when it was shady. We didn’t eat here this time, but Oly Pub is also known for its steaks. So if you’re in the mood for a significant meal, add some red meat to your beer belly and call it a happy night.
We were not so successful in creating such an appetite for ourselves on this particular night so we walked over to Kusum Rolls, to the right of Oly and ate there. Everyone knows Calcutta rolls are to die for. Kusum rolls live up to that standard.
Enthusiast Unknown 